Ann Perica makes jewelry by her own rules. Her pieces move between clear, geometric lines and playful accents. Handcrafted fine jewelry that moves between cleanly polished, geometric lines and more playful notes.
We meet in her studio in Zurich's Seefeld district. The space suits her: calm, thoughtful, with attitude. Here we talk about beauty and business. About a childhood in Bern that shaped her perspective. And about how she designs today – intuitively, close to people, with a signature that always carries a piece of herself.
Ann's Favorites
By Kaira van Wijk. Images: Ann Perica.
"This piece was inspired by Bo Derek's long braids in the 1970s movie 10 – a pop culture phenomenon, full of sun, skin, and a gold-colored swimsuit," says jewelry designer Ann Perica, holding up a fringed earring from her own collection: delicate strands of solid gold chains, set with small diamonds and pearls. As she speaks, she brushes back her waist-length, honey-blonde hair; one can immediately imagine how the piece would intertwine with it. "That's exactly how it's meant to be," she adds. "It blends with your own hair – fine jewelry with a braided feel."
Aside from jewelry, Ann's personal style of clothing is rather understated. She wears a dark blue, woven cardigan with large ivory buttons, paired with black trousers. Her look is understated, yet a preference for unusual details is palpable. "A little kitsch here and there doesn't bother me," she says with a smile. "In the studio, we often laugh about it. I like something unconventional, that slight '70s Vegas energy from time to time."
This love for the seventies – the atmosphere, the silhouettes, the architecture – also extends to her studio. The room appears calm and thoughtful, with soft wood surfaces and curved lines; a large, organically shaped sofa lies like a smooth pebble in the center, complemented by subtle Art Deco touches. "The first thing I brought here when I got the space about five years ago were these old books of my grandfather's," she says. "He had so many of them and always read. I wanted to bring something familiar into it."
As we speak, Ann arranges an assortment of artificial flowers from Silkhaus. "I love that they are durable and I don't have to change water or clean the vase," she says. She founded her eponymous label from home, starting at the kitchen table after two years of training with a goldsmith. Before that, she worked closely with diamond dealers, attended international trade shows in Las Vegas, Basel, and Geneva, and visited their New York headquarters to deepen her industry knowledge. However, the spark ignited much earlier, in her childhood. "My uncle is an architect; another uncle, along with his wife, is a stonemason. They once made me a flower ring from Swiss stone – I still have it today. My mother is a seamstress and teacher, and my father worked in the hospital but always loved photography."
Growing up in Bern, she experienced what she calls an idyllic childhood. On warm summer days, Ann often drifted down the Aare river, frequently starting from the Marzili outdoor pool. From the water, the view opens up to the city – with glimpses of historic architecture and the Bundeshaus (Federal Palace) towering above. "The Swiss writer Friedrich Dürrenmatt once described Bern's Old Town as a shell," she says. "That image has always stayed with me." Today, she divides her time between her showroom and a traditional farmhouse in the Bernese countryside, where she lives with her family.
Your sense of style…
"Personally, I love tonal dressing. Ink blue, black, like I'm wearing today. One color from head to toe or staying within the same palette. Ton-sur-ton. I apply this to jewelry as well."
How exactly does that manifest in jewelry?
"It's about the combination. Rose gold with a champagne-colored stone, for example, looks very soft. With yellow gold, I tend to go for warmer or more muted diamonds, nothing too bright – that way it looks more nuanced. I've always been drawn to yellow gold, but for larger, more striking pieces, I often prefer silver."
Your view on combining precious metals like silver and gold…
"It's important for me to maintain a balance. If someone wears mostly silver, I would add two gold pieces instead of just one, so it doesn't look accidental. It can also be subtle – something in the watch or a two-tone piece that connects everything. I often think of Leandra Cohen; I love her Substack. The way she combines things seems almost random at first glance, but it isn't. She wears fine jewelry next to something she found on vacation – and it just works. I believe almost anything is possible as long as it suits one's personality and overall style."
Most surprising about your creative process…
"(Laughs) Most of it happens in my head. I always have too many ideas, and suddenly they come together. I can't always say where it comes from – it just clicks. The basic idea is usually already there; sketching is more for refinement. I had to learn to filter, and luckily my team helps me stay focused. We're currently working on a collection inspired by Greece. A team member is getting married there; we talk about it a lot, and I was in Athens last year. Everything developed from that."
A piece of jewelry every woman should own…
"With rising gold prices, a gold piece has also become an investment. A classic ring is always a good start, something you can wear permanently. And then the pendant. Simple, round, oval, or rectangular – ideally something you can engrave to make it more personal. It goes with everything. You can wear it alone or layer it. Add a charm or combine it with something inherited, like a malachite pendant my father once found while traveling."
The most valuable pieces of jewelry…
"The piece with which everything began for my brand is the pomander, which I find very special. A pendant with a small ceramic capsule inside, into which you can put your favorite fragrance – inspired by 17th-century nobility. I used to no longer notice my own perfume because I wore it daily. This way, I do again."
What you've learned as a founder…
"To trust my own instinct. In the beginning, I listened to everyone, but there isn't one right way – it has to suit you. I studied economics, so I knew the logic, for example, that you should stick to one category. In my case, that would have been only fine jewelry in gold with diamonds, without mixing materials or price points or choosing between lab-grown and natural stones. But I never felt the need to be so strict. Gold jewelry is still the core, but I've also explored other directions, including collaborative silver pieces with an interior designer."
Biggest lesson in your career…
"It's never a straight line. Two steps forward, one step back. You try things, adjust, sometimes start anew. Often it's about people. Today, we work with great people – exciting producers and manufacturers who truly understand what we do. That takes time, but that's also part of the beauty."
